Sunday, December 1, 2013

Richmond-MORE Social

Richmond-MORE is hosting a get together at Hardywood Brewery Tuesday, December 17th from 6pm to 9pm.  Come out and try some of Hardywood’s best beers find out what is happening with the trails and meet some fellow trail enthusiast.
Cash (beer) bar – 1 Free beer with every new membership.  Doantions suggested.  Light appetizers.
We hope to see you all there!!


Wednesday, October 2, 2013

HINT! Rims Brakes: Calipers vs. Cantilevers



I'm starting a new blog series, called, "Hint!"  This series is to help you with questions that you simply need a fast answer without all of the fluff of additional information. 

Calipers vs. Cantilevers

Example Image
Simply and quickly identify which type of rim brake system is on your bike.  

Glance at your front or rear wheel to see how the brakes attach to your fork or frame. 
If the brakes use 1 center pivot bolt, you have caliper style brakes.   If your brakes are attached by 2 side pivot bolts, your brake system in a cantilever style system.



Additional Info:
Why does it matter what I have? 
By design, each system works differently in terms of leverage ratios, so it's important to make sure when you have to replace parts that you purchase items that are meant to work with the system that you own.
Caliper brakes: are self-contained and attach to the bicycle's frame by using a single bolt for each brake, front or rear. This system is usually used on road bikes where weight constraints and tire sizes are smaller.
Cantilever brakes: attaches to a bicycle's frame/fork via special brazed-on fittings and the brake for each wheel consists of two separate arms that when brakes are applied, squeeze inward to apply pressure.   These brakes are typically used on cyclo-cross, recreational and mountain bikes, where tire sizes are larger and clearance issues can be a problem for caliper style brakes.



Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Gearing Up for CycloCross Season: Article 1, Running


Cyclocross or CX racing, (aka: "cross" or "CXX") is mountain biking meets road racing.  It's typically an "all-out" effort type event that focuses on every movement based deeply in speed and fluidity.  Events usually range from 30 - 60 minutes and laps are typically short.

Riders must have skills from dismounting your bike and conquering obstacles, to climbing hills or pounding the flats, focusing on each individually is key to the steps to master in CX racing; and all while possessing a very anaerobic level of fitness.

Whether you are new to CX or you've been doing it for years, a good place to start your CX season preparation is by advancing your running skills and that's where we'll be starting with the series of articles.
CycloCross Season Article 1Getting Yourself Ready:

Since Cyclocross is so close to your road and mountain biking experience, typically the best place to begin with training is the running aspect of cyclocross.

In CX races, dismounting your bike at speed and running over obstacles or up short steep hills is common and while it sounds easy enough, it's often one of the harder steps to master in CX racing.

From preparing your dismount to running while carrying your bike to remounting and riding onward!

Whether you are new to CX or you've been doing it for years, a good place to start your CX season preparation is by advancing your running skills.

The overall idea is to get you to run about 20 mins without much effort.

Not a runner? No need to go out and run 5 miles, the idea is to give yourself time to get used to running.

Start with a 3 day a week program designed to take 15-30 mins of your time.
As with anything, easing your way into a program is key to success, no need to
go out and hurt yourself or cause a nagging strain before the season begins, right?

So, choose 3 days a week to begin your running regiment with at least 1 "rest" day in between each workout day.

I usually choose Monday's, Wednesday's, and Friday's.

Week 1: 
Monday's Run: Walk 5min | Run 5min | Walk 5min
Wednesday's Run: Walk 8min | Run 8min | Walk 8min
Friday's Run: Walk 10min | Run 10min | Walk 10min

See a pattern? The idea is to allow your body time to warm up, be exercised and cool
down in such a way that it allows your muscles to be worked without becoming sore
or having any pain.

Week 2:
Begin week 2 using Week 1's Friday run and increase from there.

Monday Run: Walk 10min | Run 12min | Walk 10min:
Wednesday Run: Walk 10min | Run 15min | Walk 10min:
Friday Run: Walk 10min | Run 15min | Walk 10min:

Week 3:
Begin Week 3 with Week 2's Friday schedule and up your run time to 17 min on Wed.
and 20 mins on Friday.

So now you can run 20 minutes! What's next? Increase your speed!
We know you have the endurance, but cyclocross is about fast paces and short bursts of
energy.

New focus! Prepare yourself for close to "max efforts" by incorporating short bursts in your training.  Move back to a Week 2 schedule, but this time you need to make incorporate 15-30 sec. bursts in every 5 mins.  Long enough to tax your body, but short enough that you can recover quickly.  Gradually increase the frequency of the bursts (about 1x every 3 mins) as well as move up towards the goal of 30 sec.!

Remember, in a CX race, you'll have to be able to jump back on the bike and pedal your
arse off!

Article 2: Dismounting and Carrying the bike while you run!

This is a crosspost article from CCVA forums

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

High Bridge State Park set to Open Singletrack, Sept. 28th, 2013

High-Bridge-State Park is set for a Grand Opening of some new singletrack options on Sept 28th. 

While mileage is not epic by any means, the 2 mile loop that is approximately a mile and a half east of Farmville is just the beginning of a bigger network. 


Dig a little deeper and you'll find that the master plan calls for Mt bike Trails going in on 2 separate tracts. One between Farmville and the bridge and the other south of Rice. 

When combined with a ride from downtown Farmville and out across the Bridge including a loop of the new trail will net you 15 miles and some great scenery! 

In order to expand the system, the volunteer base will greatly need to be expanded.  One person has been doing all of the planning and cutting thus far, so if you live or know folks in the area, please consider contact the park to get involved! 

Talk about it here on CCVA Forums.
High Bridge State Park

Friday, August 2, 2013

First Legacy Project for Richmond 2015 Announced

By now, just about everyone has heard about Richmond2015 Legacy Project at PSP.   The idea is simple, make Richmond a destination for mountain biking by being one of only 10
or 11 IMBA Ride-Centers in existence!What is an IMBA Ride Center?  Is a prime destination spot for mountain biking that not only has trails for riding, but lends itself to enrich the experiences of mountain biking by creating a more proactive environment.  The idea for the IMBA Ride Center is to include both Pocahontas State Park (PSP) and James River Park System (JRPS) as the destination spot.  Plans of linking both systems via road and off-road bicycle travel are being considered. The plan is calling for the Northern section of PSP, just South of Courthouse Rd to receive the largest amount of changes, including: 
  • 100 spot parking lot
  • Hand Cycle Station / Storage
  • Hand Cycle Trail
  • Approx 30 mls of new mountain bike trail
  • Skills Area (both for Hand-Cycles training and obstacles)
  • Shelter
  • 3 Acre Staging Area
  • Restrooms / Showers
  • Possibility for a small repair shop
Estimated costed for the Legacy Project range from $800k to $1.2Million.  But 1st a series of obstacles must be hurdled, the least of which the Master Plan for PSP must be changed.  PSP
revisits the Master Plan every 5 years and the last plan for set forth in 2011; so to move forward, a proposal and public hearing must 1st happen (happened on Aug 1st) followed by the state of Va. to revisit the old master plan, create an amendment, send it in for a vote, and approve or disapprove.  

Even if approved, the cost of the project is the single largest factor for failure or success! The Gov.has pledged $50k of funding towards the project and this is to be matched from Dominion Power, but that still leaves at least a $700k balance to complete the project.  

The other issue will be volunteers; All projects related mountain bike trails are from the efforts of volunteer groups, from downtown Richmond to PSP to the mountains in the West part of Va.  Without volunteers working in their spare time, none of the trails we ride our bikes on would be here today. NONE of THEM.  It takes thousands of hours of work to complete these trail and it simply can not be understated that in order to get Legacy Project 2015 from idea phase to completed, it will take thousands more and you help will be needed. 

That said, ETA for the project (if approved) is April 2015.We are a long way to getting there, but it will also be upon us before you can blink an eye. The Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation should be voting on the amendment to the PSP Master Plan by early Sept. Once given the "OK", Local groups like the Friends of PSP and Richmond-MORE will be setting their bars high for fundraising events! 

Talk about this on CCVA.


Wednesday, July 31, 2013

SRAM XX1 Chainring | Deconstructing how it works.

By now, you may have heard SRAM XX1; and while this actually refers to a whole line-up of SRAM components, most, if not all the buzz about XX1 is revolving about the concept of using a single chain ring drivetrain on the cranks. 


More to the point, the XX1 chain ring has been developed so that chainsuck* is all but a thing of the past.   

SRAM went back to the drawing board on the new chain ring design and uses very precise "cut" steps to alternate thickness on every other chain ring tooth, creating a well-matched interface between each inner and outer plate of the chain itself.   

This creates a "hugging" action between the chain and chain ring which helps to keep the chain in place.   If you look more closely, the teeth are also taller than normal, to also help in the event the chain does become a little slack. 


KING OF THE RING

Developed for maximum chain control, each tooth’s thickness is precisely CNC-machined to support the chain’s inner and outer links perfectly. Six available chain rings (28-30-32-34-36-38) allow you to tune your gear range to match your terrain, wheel size and riding style. Each X-SYNC™ chain ring fits a single, universal spider—allowing you to change rings without removing the light-weight carbon crank arm.
  • New tooth profile alternates thickness by inner and outer links, providing maximum chain control
  • Carbon arms with forged aluminum spider
  • CNC-machined rings (28-30-32-34-36-38)
  • New spider design allows for easier ring changes
  • Wide/narrow Q factor cranks for BB30 and GXP
  • Weight: 650 grams with BB
The reports on SRAM's XX1 chain ring set-up have been more than favorable! Over and over again folks have been able to enjoy their favorite rough terrain runs knowing that their chain will be staying put.  As of the time of this write-up, we haven't yet had any personal experience with the system, but it has peaked our interest and after some research, it know on our radar.

What did people do before SRAM XX1? 

For years the mountain bike community has been dealing with chainsuck by adding gadgets to retain the chain from moving off the chain rings.  IE: chainguides, N-JumpStops, etc. 

Alternatives to SRAM XX1?

Well, yes there are some alternatives, some companies like RaceFace  are now joining the party with their own versions of the "no-jump" chainring; but mostly, the main alternative is still in the form of the guides and stops linked above.  

"*Chainsuck is defined as the moment your chain looses enough tension to physically jumps/drops off the crank chain rings; sometimes this means it falls to the gear below it,  while other times it may jump off to the outside or inside of the chain ring landing on the frame or crank arms."

Have questions, comments, or better intel?  Let us know!

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

DCR Townhall Public Meeting @ PSP: IMBA Mountain Bike Ride Center Aug. 1 @ 6pm

 8/1: Please Share this with you friends! 
Straight from Friends of Pocahontas State Park, if you want to see the IMBA Ride Center happen at PSP, a must is having a SOLID showing from the mountain bike community at the DCR townhall meeting!

It's imperative for the MTB community to show up in support to change the master plan regulations that will allow for the IMBA Ride Center to be installed at PSP!

August 1st, that's 8/1 @ PSP's Heritage Center @ 6pm sharp


Virginia Regulatory TownHall Meetings

Friday, July 12, 2013

Road & Cyclocross Handlebar Width

Handlebar width can have a profound effect on your cycling; from how well your bike handles to how well you can breath.  Handlebars come with many features that add to the experience, but before you can worry about those, it's utterly important to have a bar that fits your body first.

While there are many brands of handlebars, each having many models and each of those having many options, the basics will always remain the same.  Your first choice should always be the one that provides the best fitment, and that begins with handlebar width.

The concepts to finding your correct handlebar width are easy enough, it just takes a few minutes at home or at your local bike shop.  As a side note; these are just "suggested" starting points for your handlebars, while these steps are likely to provide the comfort and efficiency to your ride, you may end up deviating to your personal taste.

Two methods for selecting correct handle bar width: (image right)

A) Simple Method
Select a few handlebars and have them placed against your back so that the ends of the handlebars are being are meeting up with the back of your shoulders.

The idea is that the outside edge of each side of the handlebar should span the complete width of your shoulder, with is approx. 3/4" inside of the leading edge of your arm.  Or better put, the handlebars should meet up with an imaginary line if drawn straight up from your armpit.

Once you are comfortable that you have located the correct width handlebars, you can now focus on style, tube material, shapes, etc.

B) Measure Method
Using the measure method, you are actually using the exact measurement (in cm) and add 2 cm for a final handlebar width.  measurement  ___________ + 2cm = handlebar width.  (Inches to cm = 1" for every 2.5cm)

Locate the peaks of the bony protrusions just above your chest where your arms and collarbone meet. With a measuring tape, locate edge of right protrusion and measure the span to the outer edge of the other peak.  If you have a partial size, always round up to the next nearest cm.

Now that you have your width, the rule of thumb for your handlebar size is shoulder width plus 2 cm.   So, if you measured out to a 41.5cm,  you would round up to 42cm and then add 2 cm for
a total width of 44cm handlebars.  

*Important side noted: Not all handlebars are measured equally, a handlebar should be measured the same as your shoulders, from center to center.  When measuring a handlebar, this means the center of each tube at the bottoms of the drops (aka horns) like the image to the left indicates.  Some brands measure bars from end to end, if you are not sure, ask your local bike shop for guidance.

We hope this helps you on your next handlebar purchase and makes your riding more comfortable!

Saturday, June 22, 2013

Bryce Mountain Bike Park Set to Open Today!

Bryce Resort Opening today to Downhill Mountain Biking!

2013 BRYCE MOUNTAIN BIKE PARK PRICING AND

INFORMATION

Expected Beginning of Daily Operation June 22 – September 1
Weekend Only Operations -  September 7 – October 27
Hours:
Monday-Friday – 12PM – 8PM
Saturday – 10AM – 8PM
Sunday – 10AM – 4PM
Ticket Prices:

ORDER YOUR PASSES ONLINE HERE

Day Pass - $30
Evening Pass (after 4PM) - $24
Bike Association Member (i.e. MORE, SVBC) - $27
Season Passes:
Bike Rentals (includes Full Face Helmet and Body Protection):
Day Rental - $90          Member Day Rental - $71
4-Hour Rental - $50    Member 4-Hour Rental - $40
Package Rates (Includes Lift Pass & Rental with Full Face Helmet and Body Protection):
Full Day with Rental - $100
Evening Package after 4PM - $60
“Find Your Bearings” Beginner Package:
Includes Day Lift Ticket, 2 Hour Bike Rental, and 2 Hour Instruction
Instruction Times – 10AM, 1PM, 4PM      Max: 6 Persons per Instructor
Standard Rate - $80    Rental Upgrade - $50
GoPro Hero 3 Package:
Record your runs on the hill each day by borrowing one of our GoPro Hero 3's and taking it out to record your experience!
GoPro Hero Rental, Mounted including 4GB Card - $35 per day
Additional 16GB Card - $24.99




Friday, June 14, 2013

All New: Seventh generation Santa Cruz heckler 27.5 /650B!

Santa Cruz bicycles just upped the game with the all-new seventh incarnation of the Santa Cruz heckler 27.5 /650B!

Heckler's long been a staple for Santa Cruz representing efficiency through simplicity, cost and durability!  And Now it's offered 27.5/650B category!

The All-new Heckler means 150mm of travel, 142x12mm rear axle spacing, angular bearings,  iscg-05 chainguide tabs,  73mm bb and all under the 27.5b banner!  Oh, did we mention starting at only $1299 for a frame and $2599 for a complete bike!   Santa Cruz Bikes News

Monday, May 6, 2013

Richmond RPD to step-up JRPS Patrols


As the title suggests, this is an update about Richmond PD police presence in the JRPS; which I believe to also entail normal planning and in response to any recent events in JRPS.

A first point that must be made it that the JRPS falls under two different precincts, the 1st & 3rd:   Just about everything but Belle Island is out of the 3rd precinct.  The following was given by someone of the 1st.

RPD P1 has initiated "overtime" positions which should increase police presence on Belle Island (most of the overtime is on the weekends). There are also have several larger initiatives planned for the park system that will involve more resources and personnel.  

Our local contact is not involved with any of the new initiatives, but wanted to give an update as to how RPD is paying attention to issues around Richmond, and in particular, in the parks where so many of us go as a form of recreation, gather with friends and family, etc.  


Lieutenant Timothy Wyatt of the 1st Precinctis responsible for Belle Island is fine with any posting of this information.  He also would be happy to speak on the subject at any meetings that may arise from such topics. 

Side Note: About 3 weeks back, Lisa and I were hiking through Forest Hill Park and came across 3 RDP uniformed officers on some Kawasaki duel-sport bikes; they appeared to be practicing maneuvers, etc.   

And we have also noticed patrol cars cruising through Forest Hill Park, so some one in Richmond is paying attention.  

Friday, May 3, 2013

Fixing your chain

If you ride a bike, it's pretty much a must to know how to fix your bike's chain, because it will inevitably fail at some point; more times than not at the furthest distance from where you need to be!

Fixing a chain usually requires  removing the damaged links and putting it back into working order by installing a "quick" link or link-pin, which creates the seamless chain loop.

In order to fix the chain, you'll likely need a tool called a "chain-breaker," don't worry, it's also a chain fixer! (Park Chain Tool: right)

When a chain breaks in two, it usually will look a little like the photo to the upper left corner.

To keep this article from getting too complicated, a basic understanding of what makes up a chain is this; a chain has four basic parts, inner-links which are 2 plates that as spaced apart with rollers, and outer-links that hold together inner-links by sandwiching them between 2 plates that are held together with pressed-in pins.  1 set of inner and outer links mated by pin = 1 full link.

When a chain breaks, like in the above photo, the outer plates usually cracks or gives way where the pin is pressed in; which allows the outer plates to peel apart / chain to split.

Depending on whether you are using a Quick-link or a link-pin for the chain repair, makes a difference about what steps you need to take next.  Either way, you will need to do is remove the broken sections of the chain using a chain-tool (below right pic) by "de-pinning" the broken sections until they fall apart, leaving only the desired chain.

Take a look at the photo on the left, you'll see 3 items, in the middle and left, are a pair of half-links (outer plates and two pre-installed pins), also known as a Quick-link, the item on the right is a link / press-pin.

Link/Press-Pin Installation:   To install the traditional press-pin, you'll need to get the chain to a point where you have a pair of good outer-plates and a pair of good inner-plates that can be mated by  inserting a press-pin.


Quick-Link Installation:
 Unlike the link-pin fix, the idea behind the a Quick-Link is simple.  Remove the broken outer-plates to the point that you have a pair of inner-links at end of the chain;  once at this point, install quick link by slipping each half-link (pin side in) through the open holes in the inner-links until each half-link pin groove meets the other.  Now grab the chain on each side of the fix point and pulled length wise; you should hear a "snap" as the plates and pins lock together. (Photo right: quick-link in locked position)


People will argue to the end of time which system in better, and I myself have used both and see the potential in each system, but we can save that discussion for it's own post in the future.

Side Notes: No matter which "fix" you decide on, make sure that you are using the correct size for your application!  Chains differ in size and based on number of gears and brand.  So you must make sure that your "fix" is for SRAM, Shimano, Campy, Single-speed, 7,8,9,10 or even 11 speed compatible and everything in between!

Installation Notes Expanded: 
Quick-Link Installation NOTES: Quick-links have oval looking holes which are really two holes side-by-side, the inner most hole is what the pin head initially fits through by aligning both sets of inner plates, one side of the power link from the back side of the chain, one side of the power link through the front side of the chain, bring together and connect the pins and plates on the inner most hole making sure the front and backside pins  are through the plates.  Now just pull the chain backwards to slide and set the pins in the holes furthest out. You should feel a "click."



Wednesday, May 1, 2013

National Bike Month 2013

May is National Bike month!

So the goal is simple; get those bikes out of storage and start riding!

National Bike to School Day is May 8th.
National Bike to Work Week is May 13-17.
National Bike to Work Day, Friday, May 17.

But...  Don't let these few announced days limit your riding!  Consider taking the bike to the local store for that gallon of milk, to run visit a friend, run a small errand, etc!

Have kids that want to ride to school?  Join them!
Wondering what you can do as a family this weekend?  Explore a park or battlefield via bike as a family.  We promise, it'll be fun!


Talk About it-CCVA Forums




Monday, April 29, 2013

James River Parks System's New Manager = Nathan Burrell

A huge and well-deserved congratulations to Nathan Burrell! 

After a nation-wide candidate search, Nathan J. Burrell, who has worked in the parks system full-time for approximately 10 years now, and has been Richmond's Trail Manager since around 2005, will be the City's new JRPS Manager.


Nathan will be now be moving from acting Interim-JRPS Mgr. to adopting the position permanently.  A position that has been open since Ralph White retired from the department after more than 30 years back in Dec. 2012. 
A quote from Nathan Burrell, “I’m excited about this opportunity to help in making Richmond one of the most livable cities in the U.S. with my focus on the management and development of one of our greatest resources, the James River Park,” said Burrell. “I am especially committed to maintaining a balanced approach between adventure recreation and environmental stewardship, which is critical to the future of the park.”

Talk About this-CCVA-Forums
Link to Times Dispatch Article:

Thursday, February 28, 2013

Brakes | Traditional Cantilever vs Direct-pull


Brakes | Traditional Cantilever vs Direct-pull  

This topic is not to argue which one is better or pro's & con's of either system, but rather to simply point out the differences between the two systems which becomes critical when shopping for replacement brake shoes or even replacement brakes.  
Traditional, cantilever brakes used two cables in tandem to create the brake force; a main cable running from the lever and bike, to a second, "transverse" cable which connects both arms of the cantilever units, one on each side of the wheel.  As the main cable lifts/pulls upward on the middle of the transverse cable, causing the cantilever arms to rotate inward, applying pressure on the rims to slow the bike.
"Direct pull" brakes, while also a type of cantilever, are also commonly known as "V-Brakes" (a Shimano trademark).  V-Brakes offer a cleaner design by using only a single cable from the brake levers to you brake arms.  So unlike the canti-brakes that use a cable-cable-arm system, V-Brakes offer a cable-to-brake are system, hence "Direct-pull" and as you squeeze the brake lever, the cable initially pulls the right-side arm until it meets the rim and then the left arm is pulled inward to the rim, together squeezing against the wheel to slow you down.

While those are the basic variances in the two systems, both systems use levers on the handlebars, cables and cable housing to protect both the frame and cable from rubbing, as well are mechanical arms that pivot from the frame to push against a rim that provides friction to slow the bike down. 
This is a very simplistic article as there are many, many complicated designs of each system on the market, some include hydraulic-lines in place of cables, multi-pivot designs to offer maximum braking force, weight savings and more... 

Note: Often important to note which brakes you own, at least by brand name and by the type of pads installed for when you need replacement parts. Your local bikes shops are usually pretty friendly, so you can always bring the bike to them so they can see in person what you own, or make is simple, just snap a photo with the old cell-phone. 


Tuesday, January 8, 2013

A Few Good Reasons To Upgrade Your Wheels

A Few Good Reasons To Upgrade Your Wheels 

Whether you are talking about road, cross-country, downhill, commuter, or BMX bikes, the reason for a good pair of wheels remains the same.


Stock wheels are often there to "get you by" and are far too often left inadequate even on higher-end
bikes when all the other components are absolutely top-notch!   Don't get me wrong, many bikes come equipped with wheelsets that work well enough that you may never find a need to change them.  This article is simply to point out a few reasons to consider an upgrade.  

Let's look at a few of the more common issues with stock and inexpensive wheels.   First, even if the wheelset itself is strong, the likely downside is the weight of the components that make up the wheel itself.  A wheel is made up of 3 main parts:

  1. Hub: Center component that holds your cassette which is held center by one end of the spokes.
  2. Spokes: Spoke and spoke nipples are the interface between the hub and rim.  They also give the wheel most of its strength (through tension).
  3. Rim: Outer most part of the wheel that is connected via spokes. This part of the wheel is often where the "integrity" of the wheel comes from and makes up a majority of the weight.

Wheel technology is ever changing and much faster than we can keep up with.  We often think of wheels in 3 ways: cost, strength, and weight.   There are far too many reasons as to the how's and why's of wheel components in terms of weight, strength, etc.; but to keep it short we'll just say that it is all through design and materials.

Most folks look at a wheel and see a round object, but wheels really are a marvel of engineering.  Even if they are only made with "fair" or "mediocre" components, they can be remarkably strong and exceptionally well suited to cycling.

One of the cost cutting areas where manufacturers save money is building a wheel via machine instead of a good hand-build. While machines can do many things well, none can build a wheel like a person with the know-how.  Truing and tensioning a wheel is a delicate process and could be compared to tuning a string instrument. 

So what should you look for in a wheel and how can new wheels benefit you? 

Ride Quality: Wheels are the primary contact point to the ground; they have a lot to do with how the ride feels as it moves over terrain, during braking, and acceleration.  For example, a BMX wheel is made to withstand the short and stout with usually 2x as many spokes as a road or mountain bike wheel.  This is to help it resist flex and withstand large impacts.  Typically, ride quality is measured in compliance and comfort.

- Reliability: As touched on above, wheel reliability will stem from various parts that come together to form a system that works in harmony; the wheel. There are no silver bullets for wheels, meaning no one wheel will work 100% in all circumstances.  Choosing a wheel that fits your needs is usually more important then the cost.   A wheel for commuting, for example, should not only be strong, but should be picked with the mindset of low maintenance, and while you may want a light wheel set for commuting, it is not a "must" have as it would be if you were racing. 


- Pedaling: Best place to begin is with inertia; not familiar with it? It's easy:  Inertia is the resistance of any physical object to a change in its state of motion or rest. In other words, a wheel ability to accelerate or stop is directly related to it's weight. On a bike,  inertia also effects the way a bike reacts to steering. Typically speaking, less weight means more efficient use of energy, but usually at the loss of strength or much higher costs.

Wheels are argueably the hardest working components on your bike!  They absorb the forces that your tires don't, they flex when your frame doesn't and they take all the stresses from your acceleration and braking.  It's precisely these reasons why it's so important to spend the time and money on finding the proper wheels for your bike. Spending your money wisely on a pair of quality "purpose" built wheels will help to ensure they'll keep your world spinning for years to come.

 Tip: Create a checklist before you look for that next wheelset:

  • Rider Weight
  • Purpose:
    • Discipline: Mountain, Road, Commuting, BMX, etc.
    • Racing, Stunts, Jumping, Light Weight, Maintenance 
  • Type of Brakes 
    • Rim, Disc, or both?
  • Type of Rim
    • Clincher (Tubed), Tubeless, Tubular (Glue-on)
    • Material: Carbon, Aluminum, etc.
  • Write down a paragraph or two about your intent and goals for the new wheels.
  • Budget
  • List of Quality known wheel builders
Don't be shy to call bike shops, ask friends, even someone you meet in public that might have a wheel that catches your eye.  How do they like it? Who build it? Cost? What has the maintenance been like? Cost of broken or replacement parts? How long have you owned them?  Miles on them? 

Friday, January 4, 2013

EVMA: A Call to Action.

EVMA: a call to action. 

When:  Saturday, January 12 @ 9AM
Where: York River State Park

Take up your tools and fight for trails at York River State Park! We have over 12 miles of new trail flagged at YRSP and are waiting for approval. 

At 9 am on Saturday, January 12, the YRSP Park Manager will be meeting with DCR Officials and our crew of trail volunteers. We want YOU there to represent the EVMA and ask for approval for the proposed new trail. 

A good turn-out of volunteers will demonstrate to DCR our commitment to this project. 

We will be meeting in the maintenance area, look for the EVMAbanner. 

Come out and show your support for more trails at York River State Park. After the meeting we plan on 2 - 3 hours of trail maintenance. Please stay for the trail maintenance if you can. 

The meeting should be brief, but good attendance is critical. If you plan on staying for trail maintenance please bring work gloves and a rake. 

If you have a high powered backpack leafblower, bring it.

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Ra-MORE: Jan 5th Trailwork


Trail Work - January 5th

Ancarrow's Landing
Saturday's trail work session will take place at Ancarrow's Landing. Ancarrow's Landing is the easternmost section of the James River Park, it’s a popular fishing spot with a concrete boat ramp and a parking lot that accommodates over 100 cars and trailers. It’s also the beginning of the Richmond Slave Trail. 

With an agreement with the Public Works Department, we will be working on a two mile section of trail. There's about a mile of new trail to build and 1 mile of trail corridor to be cleared.

Please come out and lend a hand with the newest trail addtions to the James River Park area.

When: Noon Saturday, Januray 5th
Where: Ancarrow's Landing - head east on Murray St. It will turn into Brander St near the Waste Water Treatment Plant and dead-end at the parking lot.
Bring: Water, Snack, Gloves

Chapel Island Trails


Chapel Island Trails

New Trails and Boat Put-in Coming to Chapel Island
Over the next couple of months, Nathan and the City Trail Care Crew will be building a boat put-in and new beginner-level and greenway style trails on Chapel Island near Great Shiplock Park (Dock and Pear St.).  This work is part of the recently passed Richmond Riverfront Master Plan.
They will be working there during the week and having volunteer days each Saturday from 9am - 1pm. Janurary's focus will be on the boat put-in and corridor clearing.  February's focus will be on trail building.
Many volunteer groups will be helping out during this time and we encourage Richmond-MORE members and friends to come out and help whenever they can. We'll keep you up to date on the progress and let you know about scheduled Richmond-MORE work days.

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